All posts filed under: STYLE

“About Fashion”, by Nicole Clinton

The Oxford English Dictionary’s definition of the word ‘fashion’ is “a popular trend; producing and marketing styles of clothing etc.”, only barely verges on the true meaning and potential of fashion. While it often finds itself unjustly dismissed as a subject of frivolity, this is a grave misconception. Fashion’s function is in fact so complex that it is rooted in paradox as it operates on the basis of the amalgamation of opposites. Its effects can mirror the cathartic power of any good piece of art, ranging from awe to tragedy to comedy. It performs as a reputable tool for the sociological study of any given era, race or gender and also acts as both a physical manifestation and stimulus of psychological feelings. Fashion is a soldier of great valour, honoured with the task of executing its duties in opposing territories. It possesses the ability to serve contradictory purposes through its paradoxical functions. For example, fashion is a means through which one may stand out from the crowd by exemplifying a unique sense of style. But …

“Gender by Design”, by Emily Stoker

Gender by design. Fashion is a new way into the feminist conversation. With designers such as Timur Kim, and Grace Wales Bonner, furthering the new feminist agenda by creating clothes that unite rather than divide. Their designs elicit a sex-positive strength that reinforces the gradual dissolution of gender binaries in the fashion industry. Supporting their efforts are independent publications such as The Gentlewoman, and Riposte, who encourage the application of feminist thinking in all areas of the arts, both online and offline. The growing support from the editorial industry is crucial, as it motivates artists with similar principles to create enduring, referential and self-explicating work. Moving our culture and communities towards a shared value system based on equality and helping gender bias to dissipate. The aforementioned designers are in good company, as they work with their teams to ensure equality is maintained throughout the entire design process. Using feminine and masculine reference materials to plan and develop concepts for their collections. Filtered into pattern cutting and construction techniques which give greater flexibility in shape and silhouette. Unisex brand …

“The Art of the Second Skin”, by Nicole Clinton

The Art of the Second Skin. Nicole Clinton examines the perception of makeup and how it affects our use of the medium in an essay written for Fashion Philosophy. * The mentality surrounding makeup and the reasons behind why it is worn are extremely multifaceted. How we view makeup personally, as an individual, or collectively, as a particular group or society, is significant in how we employ the medium and in our consciousness of our decision to create a given look. While a cloud of misconceptions is known to follow it, makeup plays a lead role in style, creative expression, and self-image. We’ll be exploring whether this misunderstood medium belongs to the realm of fashion, body or art and question the relevance of its criticisms. Makeup could be viewed as an extension of fashion and thus as an external entity that we add to our natural form. If it is perceived from this angle, then yes, it is an artificial object by nature (in the same way that a dress or jacket may be) but this …

“It’s in the Jeans”, by Nicole Clinton

Nicole Clinton charts the evolution of the world’s most popular trousers and their relationship to history. * It is almost impossible to envision a wardrobe, in fact a world, without jeans, yet it is also quite shocking that they were first invented in 1873! While the denim pants are a ubiquitous symbol of modern dress, their creation by a Bavarian-born Jew, Levi Strauss, came way back in the late-nineteenth century. The opportunistic Strauss produced and sold his first pair of jeans to a Californian miner for six dollars in gold dust after the man complained of the difficulty he experienced in finding a pair of stiff, rugged pants that could withstand the rigours of digging. Fast forward over 140 years and jeans have become both a style statement and a fashion essential in the eyes of the Western world, but not without going through a series of physical and social transformations over the decades. In the 1930s, jeans were mainly seen on the big-screen as the cowboys of Hollywood western movies made the pants a …

“Alessandro Michele & Gucci”, by Amy Jackson

Alessandro Michele & Gucci: the Michele Effect. Fashion Philosophy’s Amy Jackson investigates Gucci’s growing popularity under its Creative Director, Alessandro Michele. * Hailed as the highest selling Italian brand, Gucci is a name that’s always been synonymous with luxury. Whether it be their leather loafers or bamboo-handle tote bag, it’s likely most fashion lovers have a soft spot for at least one classic Gucci item. When Frida Giannini, the labels beloved creative director of many years was forced to leave the brand due to a decline in sales, Gucci looked to a new designer to pick up the pieces. The decision to appoint unknown designer Alessandro Michele as the new creative director of the brand was a surprising one, especially with such big names as Ricardo Tisci, Christopher Kane and Hedi Slimane being rumoured to take the spotlight. The buzz surrounding Michele’s new role, however, was high, and many believed his unknown stance in the fashion world was one of the reasons for the attention and excitement around his debut collection. Michele’s first collections reflected a mixture between …

“Bowie’s Band of Outsiders”, by Nicole Clinton

Fashion Philosophy‘s Nicole Clinton, considers David Bowie’s stylisation of the outcast and its effect on his followers. * No-one personified the intersection between fashion and music more than David Bowie. In fact, considering that his amalgamation of the two media verged on art and that he also dabbled in film, he could certainly be placed firmly in the centre of the Venn diagram of modern culture. He was one of those rare figures whose work marked a collision of pop-culture and high-culture. Following his death, the public lamented the loss of an icon and the legacy that was revered by many Bowie fans was that he showed the downtrodden outcast (that they themselves confessed to have been) that it was okay to be different. This, he most certainly did. However, was every person who claimed that Bowie helped them to accept their outsider status actually an outsider to begin with? Or did Bowie’s image make the strange so alluring that even a very average person wanted to see themselves as alien in order to feel …

Inspiration #25: Bella Hadid for EXIT Magazine

Model Bella Hadid photographed by David Roemer for an editorial feature in EXIT Magazine’s Spring 2016 issue. Styled by Sam Ranger, featuring dress and gown offerings from Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Moschino, Chanel and Hèrmes. Blog post compiled by Editor-in-Chief, Dominika Wojciechowska.

“The Daring Buds of Dior”, by Nicole Clinton

The Daring Buds of Dior. One of our newly joined writers, Nicole Clinton, explores Dior’s fixation with flowers and the possible reasoning behind it. – – – From the time of its inception as a fashion house in December 1946, Dior’s collections have drawn inspiration from flowers and their related connotations. After showcasing his first collection in February 1947, the label’s founding father, Christian Dior, supposedly exclaimed: “I have designed flower women”. The brand’s reliance on floral configurations meandered its way through the last 69 years to culminate in a botanical extravaganza last autumn, when its most recent creative director, Raf Simons, exhibited his effeminate Spring/Summer 2016 lines on a catwalk engulfed in walls of luscious flowerbeds. The fact that the flower theme is still being upheld by the house so obviously leads us to wonder: why is it that Christian Dior exuded a fixation with flowers and why did his most recent predecessor find it relevant to reignite said preoccupation today? The root of Dior’s infatuation with floral motifs may be uncovered through studying the …