All posts filed under: PARIS

“The Daring Buds of Dior”, by Nicole Clinton

The Daring Buds of Dior. One of our newly joined writers, Nicole Clinton, explores Dior’s fixation with flowers and the possible reasoning behind it. – – – From the time of its inception as a fashion house in December 1946, Dior’s collections have drawn inspiration from flowers and their related connotations. After showcasing his first collection in February 1947, the label’s founding father, Christian Dior, supposedly exclaimed: “I have designed flower women”. The brand’s reliance on floral configurations meandered its way through the last 69 years to culminate in a botanical extravaganza last autumn, when its most recent creative director, Raf Simons, exhibited his effeminate Spring/Summer 2016 lines on a catwalk engulfed in walls of luscious flowerbeds. The fact that the flower theme is still being upheld by the house so obviously leads us to wonder: why is it that Christian Dior exuded a fixation with flowers and why did his most recent predecessor find it relevant to reignite said preoccupation today? The root of Dior’s infatuation with floral motifs may be uncovered through studying the …

#News: January

Written by Sophie Prescott, featuring an archival image of Yves Saint Laurent sourced from Backstage Tales. [Yves Saint Laurent at the end of his show in Paris; 21st October, 1987.] >> Grace Coddington Steps Down as Vogue’s Creative Director This month we learned that Grace Coddington would be stepping down from her position as Creative Director at Vogue, following a period of nearly 30 years at the helm of the magazine. It was confirmed that “after more than 25 years at American Vogue, Grace Coddington will assume the role of creative director at large and take on additional projects outside the magazine”, however she will still work on several upcoming fashion shoots. >> YSL’s Simane to Be Replaced by Antony Vaccarello? The house of Yves Saint Laurent are still yet to confirm rumours of the departure of creative director Hedi Slimane, and now there are reports that Versus Versace’s Antony Vaccarello is set to take his place, and is in “extensive talks” with the French fashion house, according to WWD. Vaccarello spent three seasons lending …

#News: December

Over-viewing news from the month of December, written by Sophie Prescott. Photograph: Dior SS16, sourced from Shine by Three. >> River Island announces RI Plus Following in the footsteps of New Look, as well as online favourite ASOS, high street giant River Island is the next store to announce a plus-size range, with sizes ranging from 18-24. The range, ‘RI Plus’, will include everything from partywear to workwear, as well as its denim range and core basics, and is expected to be available in store and online from March this year. “We feel this is the right time for the brand to expand our size range offering,” a spokesperson commented, “ultimately, it’s about fashion and being inclusive.” Amen to that. >> BFC Announces NewGen Recipients The British Fashion Council has announced the six designers who will receive the NewGen sponsorship for AW16, whose previous recipients include J.W.Anderson, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou. Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz, Marta Jakubowski, Molly Goddard, Ryan Lo and Sadie William will all receive funding and the opportunity to showcase their …

#News: November

Over-viewing news from the month of November, written by Sophie Prescott. >> Balmain x H&M Causes Chaos Chaos broke out upon the release of H&M‘s collaboration with Balmain, with shoppers going to extreme lengths to get their hands on the coveted collection. The collection sold out within record time as dedicated shoppers camped outside stores in New York, Paris and Florence, while shocking footage emerged of the riotous crowds in Turkey fighting over the exclusive pieces. With a campaign fronted by the likes of Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, the pieces were gorgeous – but are they really worth an overnight camp and rowdy crowds? We’re not so sure. >> Warehouse Announces Rebrand Details News of Warehouse‘s rebrand has been circulating for some time, but it has now been announced that two fashion heavyweights are on board with the high-street brand’s image overhaul – Alasdhair Willis and Emma Cook. Willis has gone from strength to strength at Hunter and will be sure to shake things up as brand consultant, alongside Emma Cook as creative director – we can’t …

Chanel: Mademoiselle Privé

Written by Ludovica Colacino, photographed by Dominika Wojciechowska. Mademoiselle Privé. In case we needed another proof of Karl Lagerfeld’s incredible sense of aesthetic and understanding of Chanel – Saatchi Gallery hosted an exhibition about it – curated by the German designer himself. However, once we step into the first room, we do not intend it anymore as an exhibition alone, but rather a retrospective on Gabrielle Chanel and how her brand came to life. The first thing we see is Lagerfeld’s life-sized sketch of the woman behind the brand: it is almost as if she’s waiting for us at the door, welcoming to her home. The exhibition begins in the living room, giving us a sense of familiarity as we see the iconic mirror stairs, and books about Chanel on a few shelves; around them, a few camellias – the signature flower of the brand – are decorating the scene. We keep on walking through what was Gabrielle Chanel’s life as we enter the room designed to resemble her first boutique at the number 18 Place Vendôme. The sketched outlines of the dresses and …

“Raf Simons x Dior” by Ludovica Colacino

Written by Ludovica Colacino, with accompanying photograph of Raf Simons sourced via Vogue UK. It’s 2012 and Raf Simons has just taken John Galliano’s place at Dior after his dismissal. The initial fear of representing la Maison has left its place to the dazzling creativity of the designer; since his first haute couture collection, Simons aimed for the modernization of the brand without losing sight of its traditions. His later designs, collections and shows will only underline how deep his understanding of Christian Dior is. It’s easy to see the legendary elegance of the lines even underneath Simons’ most edgy creations. After 20 years spent working for his own brand named after him – plus a seven year commitment to Jil Sanders as a creative director – Simons was looking for a much wider audience and for a challenge, especially towards himself and his talent. Dior is already one of the most luxurious brands existing today, and the perspective of writing a chapter of its story is an unbelievable opportunity. It was a risk for …