All posts filed under: MEN’S STYLE

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“Gender by Design”, by Emily Stoker

Gender by design. Fashion is a new way into the feminist conversation. With designers such as Timur Kim, and Grace Wales Bonner, furthering the new feminist agenda by creating clothes that unite rather than divide. Their designs elicit a sex-positive strength that reinforces the gradual dissolution of gender binaries in the fashion industry. Supporting their efforts are independent publications such as The Gentlewoman, and Riposte, who encourage the application of feminist thinking in all areas of the arts, both online and offline. The growing support from the editorial industry is crucial, as it motivates artists with similar principles to create enduring, referential and self-explicating work. Moving our culture and communities towards a shared value system based on equality and helping gender bias to dissipate. The aforementioned designers are in good company, as they work with their teams to ensure equality is maintained throughout the entire design process. Using feminine and masculine reference materials to plan and develop concepts for their collections. Filtered into pattern cutting and construction techniques which give greater flexibility in shape and silhouette. Unisex brand …

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“It’s in the Jeans”, by Nicole Clinton

Nicole Clinton charts the evolution of the world’s most popular trousers and their relationship to history. * It is almost impossible to envision a wardrobe, in fact a world, without jeans, yet it is also quite shocking that they were first invented in 1873! While the denim pants are a ubiquitous symbol of modern dress, their creation by a Bavarian-born Jew, Levi Strauss, came way back in the late-nineteenth century. The opportunistic Strauss produced and sold his first pair of jeans to a Californian miner for six dollars in gold dust after the man complained of the difficulty he experienced in finding a pair of stiff, rugged pants that could withstand the rigours of digging. Fast forward over 140 years and jeans have become both a style statement and a fashion essential in the eyes of the Western world, but not without going through a series of physical and social transformations over the decades. In the 1930s, jeans were mainly seen on the big-screen as the cowboys of Hollywood western movies made the pants a …

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“Alessandro Michele & Gucci”, by Amy Jackson

Alessandro Michele & Gucci: the Michele Effect. Fashion Philosophy’s Amy Jackson investigates Gucci’s growing popularity under its Creative Director, Alessandro Michele. * Hailed as the highest selling Italian brand, Gucci is a name that’s always been synonymous with luxury. Whether it be their leather loafers or bamboo-handle tote bag, it’s likely most fashion lovers have a soft spot for at least one classic Gucci item. When Frida Giannini, the labels beloved creative director of many years was forced to leave the brand due to a decline in sales, Gucci looked to a new designer to pick up the pieces. The decision to appoint unknown designer Alessandro Michele as the new creative director of the brand was a surprising one, especially with such big names as Ricardo Tisci, Christopher Kane and Hedi Slimane being rumoured to take the spotlight. The buzz surrounding Michele’s new role, however, was high, and many believed his unknown stance in the fashion world was one of the reasons for the attention and excitement around his debut collection. Michele’s first collections reflected a mixture between …

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“Bowie’s Band of Outsiders”, by Nicole Clinton

Fashion Philosophy‘s Nicole Clinton, considers David Bowie’s stylisation of the outcast and its effect on his followers. * No-one personified the intersection between fashion and music more than David Bowie. In fact, considering that his amalgamation of the two media verged on art and that he also dabbled in film, he could certainly be placed firmly in the centre of the Venn diagram of modern culture. He was one of those rare figures whose work marked a collision of pop-culture and high-culture. Following his death, the public lamented the loss of an icon and the legacy that was revered by many Bowie fans was that he showed the downtrodden outcast (that they themselves confessed to have been) that it was okay to be different. This, he most certainly did. However, was every person who claimed that Bowie helped them to accept their outsider status actually an outsider to begin with? Or did Bowie’s image make the strange so alluring that even a very average person wanted to see themselves as alien in order to feel …

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Anecdotal Luxury: The Fashion Hybrid Complex

The individuals behind brands such as Hood By Air, Nasir Mazhar and Cottweiler are at the frontier of a new fashion format. They each share the artistic inclination to explore deeper facets of our humanity through their work, revealing something subversive about our species. The way they present their collections is also fitting of this new formation. You can find their clothing seeking refuge from the commotion of commerce in sparse exhibition spaces, moving away from the segue of the runway, indicating the need for a change in the way fashion is communicated. These brands also have a closely connected peer group both online and IRL, which has been described by some fashion critics as “cult” and “tribal”. This description seems banal for an industry which is supposed to encourage collective forms of creativity within communities. The clothing that these brands produce is also more ambiguous and casually constructed than has previously been the norm in traditional fashion circles, leading to their collections being generalised as “streetwear”. This is a term that some designers strongly …

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On Comic Sans

WE ALL NEED TO RECONSIDER COMIC SANS MS, LIKE YESTERDAY. Although 1998 feels like last year, we wore 2000 glasses and shouted the goofy “see you next century” sixteen years ago already. It’s like a decade has gone in a minute. I’m not nostalgic, but I was thrilled about the strong return of the 90s in fashion. As many raised-by-the-Spice-Girls kids, wearing fishnets and chokers feels natural. We don’t have to try too hard, it’s just who we are. But we also know the 90s are not only about that. It might be okay for someone who just bought an “I Heart the 90s” H&M t-shirt two weeks ago, but for the Schott progeny, the come back of this iconic decade is completely incomplete without Comic Sans MS. If we’re talking 90s material, what is more representative of this era than the “best font in the world”? And why is it not the one you chose for your latest tattoo? One word. Popularity. People crave distinction to the point of hating anything they love when …

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#News: March

>> Sophia Webster Wins BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund Congratulations to Sophia Webster, who won the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund earlier this month. The luxury footwear designer won the award, which provides £200,000 funding and a year of mentorship, at the Bulgari Hotel. So what’s next for Webster after her celebrations? “The store is next on the agenda, we only just got the keys last week, so that’s our next focus. After that, our team is growing and we’ve really outgrown our space so next will be a new office. It’s incredible.” >> Armani Ditches Fur “I am pleased to announce that the Armani Group has made a firm commitment to abolish the use of animal fur in its collections,” read a statement made by an Armani spokesperson, as they made the decision to go cruelty-free in their fashion collections as of AW16. The policy will apply to the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani Prive collections – let’s hope other brands follow by example. >> Mansur Gavriel Bucket Bag Lawsuit Leather goods designers Mansur Gavriel have accused …

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#News: February

>> Tom Ford Cancels NYFW Presentations Tom Ford has flouted the traditional fashion calendar (conventionally showing collections four months before their release) by cancelling his planned presentations at NYFW. “Our customers today want a collection that is immediately available. Fashion shows and the traditional fashion calendar, as we know them, no longer work in the way that they once did,” Ford said in a statement released this month. Instead, his AW16 collection will be delayed until September, where it will be instantly available for purchase. >> Cavalli Settles Court Cases Roberto Cavalli has settled two plagiarism lawsuits out of court. One involved the MTO Shahmaghsoudi School, who claimed a tattoo in Cavalli’s Just Gold fragrance campaign resembled a sacred emblem which represents the school’s beliefs. The second lawsuit came after Californian graffiti artists Revok, Reyes and Steel claimed designs from the Just Cavalli label were taken from one of their murals in San Francisco. Details were not disclosed, however both parties agreed to dismiss their cases. >> Gucci’s AW16 ‘Graffitied’ by GucciGhost Graffiti inspired-designs have …