All posts filed under: COLLECTIONS

“Gender by Design”, by Emily Stoker

Gender by design. Fashion is a new way into the feminist conversation. With designers such as Timur Kim, and Grace Wales Bonner, furthering the new feminist agenda by creating clothes that unite rather than divide. Their designs elicit a sex-positive strength that reinforces the gradual dissolution of gender binaries in the fashion industry. Supporting their efforts are independent publications such as The Gentlewoman, and Riposte, who encourage the application of feminist thinking in all areas of the arts, both online and offline. The growing support from the editorial industry is crucial, as it motivates artists with similar principles to create enduring, referential and self-explicating work. Moving our culture and communities towards a shared value system based on equality and helping gender bias to dissipate. The aforementioned designers are in good company, as they work with their teams to ensure equality is maintained throughout the entire design process. Using feminine and masculine reference materials to plan and develop concepts for their collections. Filtered into pattern cutting and construction techniques which give greater flexibility in shape and silhouette. Unisex brand …

#News: May

The month just passed saw even more announcements, controversies and social media posts within the fashion industry – for high fashion and high street alike. Here’s the round-up of all the most important fashion news stories for May – read on to find out about the most exciting new collaborations coming soon, and more… >> Gisele Speaks Out Against Animal Trafficking Model Gisele Bundchen has passionately voiced her opinions opposing illegal animal trafficking, through the UN campaign ‘Wild For Life’ – an issue she describes as a “shameful trade pushing species to the edge of extinction”. As part of the campaign, Gisele picked an animal which best represented herself to raise awareness – in her case, the Sea Turtle. The campaign encourages others to pick a ‘spirit animal’ on social media to spread the message. >> New Horizons For M&S The new CEO of Marks and Spencer, Steve Rowe, has announced plans to completely turn around the dwindling retailer, making changes to improve the style, fit and quality of its clothes. He told the BBC’s Today …

Exhibitions [London] – May Edit

Spending the summer in the City never sounds that exiting — nor that boring, just very ‘meh‘ — especially when all the people you know are counting the days away from their departures to jaw-dropping destinations. It would be a huge mistake, however, to undervalue London during summertime; the City is in full bloom with all kinds of events, music festivals, parties — you all know what I’m talking about — but sometimes it’s better to stop to strive for the mesmerizing and incredible summer experience and to enjoy the refreshing quietness of a museum. Any art lover knows that no, museums are not just for rainy days: they are also the perfect haven from the warm and lethargic summer days — and, most importantly, let’s not forget the knowledge you get from them. Here is a list of selected exhibitions in which art, photography, and fashion are explored in countless, various ways — for all the different tastes possible. These exhibitions are currently on, or will start and finish during the month of May, and are held …

Anecdotal Luxury: The Fashion Hybrid Complex

The individuals behind brands such as Hood By Air, Nasir Mazhar and Cottweiler are at the frontier of a new fashion format. They each share the artistic inclination to explore deeper facets of our humanity through their work, revealing something subversive about our species. The way they present their collections is also fitting of this new formation. You can find their clothing seeking refuge from the commotion of commerce in sparse exhibition spaces, moving away from the segue of the runway, indicating the need for a change in the way fashion is communicated. These brands also have a closely connected peer group both online and IRL, which has been described by some fashion critics as “cult” and “tribal”. This description seems banal for an industry which is supposed to encourage collective forms of creativity within communities. The clothing that these brands produce is also more ambiguous and casually constructed than has previously been the norm in traditional fashion circles, leading to their collections being generalised as “streetwear”. This is a term that some designers strongly …

Exhibitions [London] – April Edit

Royal Academy of Arts * Painting the Modern Gardens — Monet to Matisse, 30th January — 20th April 2016. The representation of the modern garden is the conductor thread that connects all the paintings exhibited – starting from the early impressionism of Monet and – chronologically speaking – ending with Matisse. This major RA exhibition is recommended to those interested in the history of art and painting. Tate Modern * Performing for the Camera, 18th February – 12th June 2016. Photography and performance are studied under a very close look in this major exhibition at Tate Modern. Recommended to everybody, but especially to those interested in photography and advertising. To read more about the exhibition, visit one of our articles from last month >>. Tate Britain Artist and Empire, 25th November 2015 – 10th April 2016; Conceptual Art in Britain 1964–1979, 12th April – 29th August 2016. Somerset House Stables and Lucraft: Ulmus Londinium, 27th October 2015 – 7th April 2016; Out There: Our Post-War Public Art, 3rd February – 10th April 2016. Barbican Strange and Familiar: Britain as Revealed …

On Comic Sans

WE ALL NEED TO RECONSIDER COMIC SANS MS, LIKE YESTERDAY. Although 1998 feels like last year, we wore 2000 glasses and shouted the goofy “see you next century” sixteen years ago already. It’s like a decade has gone in a minute. I’m not nostalgic, but I was thrilled about the strong return of the 90s in fashion. As many raised-by-the-Spice-Girls kids, wearing fishnets and chokers feels natural. We don’t have to try too hard, it’s just who we are. But we also know the 90s are not only about that. It might be okay for someone who just bought an “I Heart the 90s” H&M t-shirt two weeks ago, but for the Schott progeny, the come back of this iconic decade is completely incomplete without Comic Sans MS. If we’re talking 90s material, what is more representative of this era than the “best font in the world”? And why is it not the one you chose for your latest tattoo? One word. Popularity. People crave distinction to the point of hating anything they love when …

Fashion Enthusiast @ London Fashion Week

What it means to be a fashion enthusiast at London Fashion Week? I like to call myself a “fashion enthusiast”, why? Simple – I’m not an essential authority in the fashion industry. I mean, no one is asking for my opinion on Vogue’s last editorial [doesn’t mean I don’t tweet about it anyway] and I’m not a notable fashion editor or an imperative voice when it comes to fashion journalism. Yet I do work on the sidelines of the fashion industry as a mix of a graphic designer, editor, journalist and producer for a small (yet growing) production company. I do have a minor (lie, MAJOR) girlcrush on Leandra Medine and online publications take up about fifty percent of my bookmarks. Sometimes I consider getting seriously into photography just for the sole existence of street-style, and when ASOS called me back I woke up my flatmate without thinking it twice — sadly that was a one time contact. On a side note, I should also say that I’m originally from the other side of the world …

#News: February

>> Tom Ford Cancels NYFW Presentations Tom Ford has flouted the traditional fashion calendar (conventionally showing collections four months before their release) by cancelling his planned presentations at NYFW. “Our customers today want a collection that is immediately available. Fashion shows and the traditional fashion calendar, as we know them, no longer work in the way that they once did,” Ford said in a statement released this month. Instead, his AW16 collection will be delayed until September, where it will be instantly available for purchase. >> Cavalli Settles Court Cases Roberto Cavalli has settled two plagiarism lawsuits out of court. One involved the MTO Shahmaghsoudi School, who claimed a tattoo in Cavalli’s Just Gold fragrance campaign resembled a sacred emblem which represents the school’s beliefs. The second lawsuit came after Californian graffiti artists Revok, Reyes and Steel claimed designs from the Just Cavalli label were taken from one of their murals in San Francisco. Details were not disclosed, however both parties agreed to dismiss their cases. >> Gucci’s AW16 ‘Graffitied’ by GucciGhost Graffiti inspired-designs have …