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Coach AW’15

Shearling. Seductive. Stand out star. Just a few choice phrases used to describe the new direction of former Mulberry designer, Stuart Vevers, and the Coach fall line. Debuting its first full ready-to-wear collection for men, the show was held at the old Central Saint Martin’s College in London. The all-American brand was said to be one of the highlights on Friday during LC:M.
Renowned for its womenswear, Vevers appeared to follow the successful elements of previous female staples in the creation of this Coach collection. The result: sizeable shearling coats (a definitive trend that emerged across the board of menswear for the forthcoming season), bomber jackets and hiker boots. All of which endeavoured a masculine, yet American luxury, edge.
Outwear pieces featured bulkier cuts and darker colours. Peacoats and parkas were married with accents of leather, leopard lining and prominent prints. Knitwear was showcased in basic tones, and – of course – there were outstanding jackets in Coach’s signature classic brown calfskin leather.
At first glance, I was unimpressed with this collection. I thought it lacked imagination, was played somewhat safe and found myself looking for more. However, on closer inspection, one can see that what Vevers has created is superb simplicity, and not airing on the side of caution at all.
There are no tricks, no new-fangled trends, nor any viewpoints being shouted from the depths of every stitch and seam. Reflection shows that what I originally deemed basic, is rather more an offering of functional winter street style. Plain, with a pleasingly classic aesthetic attached to the side. Based on a New Yorker’s love for practicality, this collection should be recognised for pairing a straightforward, softly spoken, ‘no mess’ kind of vision, with honest construction.
We await and see what the future holds for further collections. 
Written by Lucy Cox;
Image source: // courtesy of Coach.

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